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Sprinterguru is right!! Sprinter brakes suck I think 3. I myself like diesel trucks better then gas trucks, but when Last nigfht bottom comes to cars i like gas powered cars brzkes. All Spritner do is 1st clean everything with brake cleaner. But when you pay tons of money for a vehicle that is supposed to be quality and get something that runs worse than a geo, well It seems to me that life depends on the way they're used and that they really don't tolerate overheating. Makes us look bad running service calls in the new Sprinter brakes suck around town. Are you considering a vehicle subscription service or did you previously consider one and decide against it?
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I know some good dealerships that don't deserve it. By the way I do not have dual wheels. How would the parts get on the vehicle? Where is the parts store Blow down trees steamboat springs I break down miles from home? Hi guys my dodge sprinter threw lites on in the dash abs - esp -asr Sprinetr. So now I know it's a brake issue. If your rotor is still fat, it's probably going to be fine. Now brake repair practices! I bled the hell out Sprinter brakes suck the brakrs and no air bubbles left. A couple brake jobs, a few fluid changes, and suddenly it's an easy sale Sprinter brakes suck them to convince you to just buy a new vehicle.
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User Name Remember Me? Re: Brakes pads worn out at 27K miles?? On my instrument panel "brake pads worn symbol" goes on every time I drive, is this normal for a Sprinter to have worn out brake pads at 27, miles? I am shocked if this is the case. They do look to have wear on them but I'm really clueless to what they actually should look like when they are new as far as thickness goes.
Please let me know. I wouldn't say it's normal for that kind of brake life. For example, my first set of front pads and rotors went k miles and the rears are predicted by measurement vs miles data to last over k miles; and, many others have reported much more life from theirs. Of course, some have reported life on the level of the 27k you're talking about here. It seems to me that life depends on the way they're used and that they really don't tolerate overheating.
Overheating causes the pad material to become glassy and brittle resulting in increased wear rates. Today AM For 1 the outboard pads wear faster, so the measurement is not hard to do.
For instance, the front rotors on my '02 with 16" wheels start life at 0. Every time I do my brakes, I replace the rotors, pads and sensors together. I live in The Peoples Republic of Commiefornia, so a lot of my time is spent braking on downhills. My first set of front brakes the originals wore out at about 26K.
The second set lasted about 25K to 51K , and the third set wore out at 70K, only 19K of use! I can do either front wheel in about 15 minutes, from rolling out the jack to lowering it again.
The rear brakes take a bit longer. Originally Posted by mobileoilchange. Simon you just Rock Matches with Aus Sprinters, in fairness they are running units!
In a Mercedes Sprinter AU.. It's called a peace Revolution. Of course I'm being totally biased. Driving my life Away in a Cdi Mercedes-Sprinter. I LOVE the brakes on the sprinters I tried telling everyone before that the brakes on the sprinters "the USA version" anyhow are junk.
Originally Posted by bikerjoe. Mechanic told me I need new brakes, so I ordered a set of Brembos for front and rear ones from a general parts store.
Does anyone know if 04 Sprinters have EGR valve problems? I found out that 04s have the redesigned engine so does that mean the EGRs don't go out on them?
All times are GMT. The time now is AM. Contact Us - Sprinter-Source. Brakes pads worn out at 27K miles?? User Name. Remember Me? Mark Forums Read. Page 2 of 2. Thread Tools. Find More Posts by talkinghorse Find More Posts by mobileoilchange.
Find More Posts by bikerjoe. Quote: Originally Posted by mobileoilchange Find More Posts by Altered Sprinter. Quote: Originally Posted by bikerjoe Every time I do my brakes, I replace the rotors, pads and sensors together.
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Tommy Boy, circa Sorry, couldn't resist again. Brake fluid breaks down with use and should be changed every 2 years in your Mercedes-Benz Sprinter or whenever it looks dark in color - this will make the internal brake components last longer. My point wasn't a pre-approval to getting ripped as much as it was a knowing that parts and service will definitely be more than a Ford or Chevy. You know I could guarantee you all day long, but we both know a guarantee is only as good as the man who writes it. Okay, I'll buy from you. German Vito rental van, squishy. As for the dealership
Sprinter brakes suck.
Checked the factory service manual, nothing trivial about bleeding brakes. For some reason there isn't a bleeder on the ABS unit, but I did my best to bleed it by cracking each of the 4 lines with pedal pressed; still squishy. No fluid leaks at calipers. Only thing left is the ABS unit, and I did note in the factory manual that there could be possible internal leaks in the ABS unit with no evidence, so that's where I'm at. I got the unit out of our salvage truck and will be swapping tomorrow if time allows and see what happens.
I'm about to use kerosene and matches on this thing Pedal takes one pump for soft brakes, and two for a hard pedal while driving. Not good for panic stops Why did you change the master cylinder? If there is air anywhere it will cause the symptoms you describe. Air can remain in the ABS system even after a traditional brake line bleed. There have been reports of air in the brake system being traced to faulty ABS units. As I recall the symptoms were that the pedal would get soft, bleeding would restore, soft pedal would return after a time.
The air can leak into the ABS system during down time without necessarily showing an external leak. We changed the master cylinder due to the squishy pedal, after an initial bleeding. I bled the hell out of the system and no air bubbles left. I do have a scan tool and I can see if that will help With this truck, the pedal is consistently squishy every time you push the pedal; it takes a double pump in order to get a good feel. I did just order a complete MityVac pressure bleed system about 10 minutes ago mainly so I don't have to wait on an extra guy to help me.
I would check out 2 things: 1-have a buddy press the pedal and you visually inspect each rubber brake line for a bubble or unnatural expanding. Turned out to be poorly adjusted rear brake shoes. I know, the Ford has rear drums and the Sprinter has rear disks, but check all the calipers for one that may "stick", or not close all the way on the first pump of the brakes. Good luck! There may be or have been nothing wrong with your master cylinder.
I bleed them, find a low traction surface like gravel lock it up a few times and let the abs actuate then re bleed. I have seen air exit the system after this procedure. I use a Motive pressurized bleeder with an in fluid catch can. A one man deal and you can do it with the wheels on.
Sounds like a decent DIY method to me. The soft feel still stops the vehicle with one go. Anyone know where to buy the DRB, I may just get one. Also, I know the pedals are typically soft, but this one is too soft. I've got 10 other Sprinters to compare it with. I found that pressurized bleeding works better than vacuum bleeding, as well as the above mentioned "take it out on the road and make the ABS cycle" than bleed again.
I would also check the amount of vacuum your brake booster is getting. The engine mounted vacuum pump can wear out. A stuck caliper can also lead to some squishy feel. I'm feeling good right now that I'm not the only one struggling with this. Threw in the towel today and took it to a different shop to let them play with it. They've had it all day; might get it back tomorrow, heh. Brake rotors wore down to far what fixed ours. Mine was quite bad at , Dodge dealer tried to sell me 4 new calipers.
I put new rotors and pads on the front myself At this point I'm letting this truck be as it is. I threw in the towel and took it to a shop down the street and let them jack with it for two days. They even put the new master cylinder back in it, and swapped out the ABS unit.
Nearly the same result. TWO mount bolts and two brake line nuts, under 10 minutes to do. Soft brake pedal I usually find is a seized front caliper slide. Take cover off the bottom slide on each front caliper and if its full of rust then its seized and needs a new slide kit fitted. Wow, glad they were pros and new what they were doing. Not fixed--talk to a lawyer For that much I think a sprinter dealer would do it At least I think they can.
Way late to the party, but I think the "squishy" brake pedal is a Mercedes thing. No matter what model BMW I drive the brakes all feel the same. Firm and linear. Every Mercedes I have driven had the " squishy" feeling brakes. E, squishy. E convertible, squishy. German Vito rental van, squishy. Go figure. At the end of the day the Mercedes mind set is focused to a buyer who wants a solid German car with more luxury and comfort with a compromise on sportiness.
In my case, with the Airstream, the Mercedes chassis hits that nail right on the head. Compared to my old Winnie, the Sprinter is a sports car. If you're on the edge, then yeah, even though it's still barely in spec, it's seen a lot of wear, a lot of heat, and it's more likely to cause issues. But - you have to measure to find out. The rears just don't wear out that fast.
Comebacks for any business are bad. Not to mention the noticeable reduced effectiveness of the new pads until they conform to the old rotor grooves. Surface contact does matter.
I believe dealerships are not allowed to turn the rotors because it is prohibited by MB I could be wrong. For the most part dealerships need to use the parts provided to them. The prices are what they are. I was speaking in general terms so yes, rotors might be re-usable.
I would err on the side of caution. Continually bashing dealers is easy. It just aggravates me sometimes. I know some good dealerships that don't deserve it. I'm just trying to keep things in perspective. I did end with "That is only my opinion" and now I've said more than I ever planned to. Yes I understand I was charged a premium yes it sucks to always replace rotors but more and more the people that replace brakes replace everything because of liability.
Lets say they mic'd the rotors and they were in spec the first thing the lawyers are going to want that installer or business to do is PROVE IT. For every time I try and sneak by and go the cheap rout I end up paying twice as much as doing it right the first time. They change my fuel filter that I bring in for just labor. I got even more good will with my dealership who fixed my roof leak long after the warranty was up because they went to bat for me.
I could just see my self sailing down a high mountain road thinking Hmmmmmm I wonder if it was a good idea re using my rotors even though the dealer advised not to.
When you put a pencil ti things it's not as bad as all of you are making it out to be. Oh one last thought. So actually I would have been screwed had I brought in my parts and something went wrong.
You must have an exceptional dealer where you live, my experience with my Sprinter dealer has been far different. I have had problems misdiagnosed and not properly done and as far as trying to get them to do the job correctly have still been charged for yet "another problem that they found" to get the original problem corrected!
I have 2 Sprinters and while i do have some knowledge about repairing them i do not always have the time to do things myself and diesel engines are not my thing in general as far as my knowledge.
I am not trying to rip anyone here but just offer other options to them. Owning a vehicle built by Mercedes may also add some cost but does not mean that you should get ripped because you happened to choose a vehicle built by them expecting something reliability and actually getting something far less.
I am not cheap when it comes to maintaining my trucks but i also don't just throw money away either, i just expect good product for a fair price. Yes my dealer is amazing they even did oil change and didn't charge me a dime for the labor as I brought in my own filters and oil. I had a LAMP ON indicator light that was driving me nuts, the service guy while he was writing up my order walked over tapped my blinker light found the problem and replaced the bulb at no charge, Same thing with an interior lamp replaced at no charge.
That's the way it has always been with me and service writers. I let them "get" me some days and some days they let me "get" them it all works out. My point wasn't a pre-approval to getting ripped as much as it was a knowing that parts and service will definitely be more than a Ford or Chevy.
I gotta admit, the prices are steep I would never do a front brake job on a NCV3 without replacing the rotors. I will be doing front brakes due to rotor wear I also believe.. It's cheap insurance to ensure your brakes have the largest available heat sink to work with that's what your brakes are doing..
As for the dealership At a retail level, there is too much liability, risk of comeback, or the life of the brake job being poor. The additional labour is minimal and the resulting life of the brake job is likely double.
To me it's getting sold things I don't need. That's how getting ripped off works. They already know you're going to surf the net for part prices and work your labor against the competition. However, if you have 0. That's just me, though. Oh god - I just love the emotional BS arguements they lay out from time to time, too. Sheesh - STFU and show me some data, some worn parts. Oh god - I just love the emotional BS arguments they lay out from time to time, too.
We're arguing? All this time I was treating it like a general discussion where people can express themselves so more information comes out and then others can make their decisions. What you choose to apply or not is the choice you make.
Maybe next time you could try buying your parts here. Thats half the cost of what your dealer charged you and for the price you paid to get your brakes done you could have changed them almost 3 times doing it on your own! This has not been added to bash you, But to let others know that they do have other choices. Hope this helps, Wayne. I just re-read and noticed that I almost spit out my drink Are we?
I meant that as third person to a dealer conversation - not anyone in this thread. But, after re-reading, I can see your point. Forum post misinterpretation on my part. Carry on. One question? How would the parts get on the vehicle? So now lets take a look at your math. OK back to your math. Where is the parts store when I break down miles from home? Let me explain this scenario because I've been here done that. I get home argue with the person on the net while they say I'll get back to you and they never do.
Thank you and sorry bout that. Again no arguing here, but if you are a mechanic and are capable of doing brakes on your own and you want to reuse parts like the sensor and the rotors you will save a boat load of money. But if you aren't and you want your brakes as NEW then I have show Ad nauseam how the dealer price is not as outrageous as you all are making it out to be.
Seriously are we done with this yet? This has nothing to do with this serious brakes discussion thread. Read at your own risk. Bull's ass, that's great. And you guarantee everything you sell? You know I could guarantee you all day long, but we both know a guarantee is only as good as the man who writes it. Sounds good, Tom. I'll send the contract next week. I like your line. And I like your prices. But there's a problem. There's no guarantee on the box. If they break down, you can call me at home, even if I'm watching TV.
Callahan has guaranteed every part sold since Maybe so, but it's not on the box. It should always be on the box. Comforting you, calling out, "I'm good. I'll never let you down. Son, if you're not talking about a guarantee, skip it. My customers need to see that little label, lookin' at 'em right in the eye.
Alright, uh, you wanna talk about guarantees, then Fellas, you just ran out of time. Chicken wings. Let's think about this for a sec, Ted. Why would someone put a guarantee on a box? Hmm, very interesting. Go on! I'm listening. Here's the way i see it, Ted. A guy puts a fancy guarantee on the box 'cause he wants you to feel all warm and toasty inside.
Why shouldn't it? You figure you put that little box under your pillow at night, the Guarantee Fairy might come down and leave a quarter, am I right, Ted? What's your point? The point is, how do you know the fairy isn't a crazy glue sniffer? Well, we're not buying it. He sneaks into your house once, that's all it takes. Next thing you know there's money missing off the dresser and your daughter is knocked up.
I've seen it a hundred times. But why do they put a guarantee on the box then? That's all it is, isn't it? Hey, if you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it "guaranteed", I will. I got spare time. But for now, for your customers' sake, for your daughter's sake you might wanna think about buying a quality product from me. Okay, I'll buy from you. Tommy Boy, circa Sorry, couldn't resist again. I love that movie. That's Mercedes Benz Dealer price too! Your brake system has a sensor, when its time to replace your pads the sensor will light up an icon on your cluster stating it's time for new brakes.
View Full Version : Sprinter Squeaky Brakes! Any thoughts??? Hello, My new Sprinter with under miles has begun to squeak when the brakes are applied. Anyone else have this issue? SHould this be a concern? Any thoughts would be great. My 's brakes started squeaking at less than miles.
Haven't said anything to the dealer yet. Have to take it back to the dealer because there is a wire missing from the wiring harness going to the passenger side rear fog light. The mechanic said that the harness must have been made on Monday or Friday.
That fog light is only on the drivers side. I already went through that on mine:idunno:. Dealer won't be able to do anything about it. Mine are squeaky only when cold, once they get hot the get quiet. Mine used to squeak only when cold and only in hard braking, it has gotten progressively worse and now it squeaks all the time, to the point that it's getting quite annoying. That CAN'T be normal, for any car.
I just don't want to have to take it back to the dealer and be out of the van for a week. It seems every dealer repair takes a week. The reason and hopes for writing this post is if anyone has had this problem already and taken the van to the dealer for repair, I'd like to know if the shop was able to correct the problem or if there's a recall on these brakes. Sometimes, the factory or the mechanic just needed to add a backing plate to the back of the pads to quiet them down.
I hear an occasional squeak and my 07 ext. Hi guys, I just went back and checked on the German Forum since I remembered that they were discussing the same issue. There has not been a recall on it. What they are saying is that the brake pad mixture is too hard and that is why they squeak. The guys that took it in did get the brake pads and disks replaced. Apparently MB is using different ones now that at least minimize the issue.
They has also been another issue with the brakes and that is a rumbling noise from the brake calipers. There is a replacement kit available for that which seems to work. BTW mine squeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaak too.
Sounds like a freight train coming into the train station. Same here. The brakes squeak like mad cow and the brake dust is unbelievable. I have miles on mine. Hey Hey please let me know what if any thing is done about this "characteristic".
Dont like people looking at the van for the wrong reasons,and the noise is a pain the a. I have also noticed ALOT of brake dust on my front wheels. I am thinking maybe the brakes are not proportioned correctly.
This is definitely something to look into. I switched to ceramic pads on my old van, when I put fancy wheels on it. But I should'nt have to buy new pads on a van with under miles on it. If anyone has a "buddy" or relative that works at a Dodge dealership please ask if there is an adjustment in the brakes to make the rears grab better?
Problem with putting more pressure on the rear brakes is that they will more likely lock up the wheels if braking hard. I know ABS I have not seen any vehicle that had less or equal amount of dust build up on the front because no matter how you adjust it they will always have to work harder than the rears. Just my :2cents: SprinterUSA1. We're up to 4cents now Some rims suck air in and others out via the holes designed in their body, but either way it's for assisting in brake cooling. Most rims suck outward better flow and with the incressed pressure under the vehicle and this normal dust from normal wear sticks to rims.
As for squeaky, some brake pad 'ingredients' will react to the rotor and squeak. Despite being annoying it doesn't nessesarily mean there is a mechanical issue. If the pads are wearing down prematurely or wearing the rotor same, yes that's an issue.
There are ways to 'soften' the noise, most remedies come from experienced brake persons familiar with specific vehicles. One of my friends was a dealership Mercedes tech in the '70s.
Both my friend and my father have told me that MB brake pads from the factory were always tougher than the replacement parts available over the counter from dealership parts counters. Back in the '70s brake pad dust was the big squeek culprit. As "dated" as their experiences are today, neither were not surprised to hear that my NCV3's brakes are squeaking at such low mileage. Both recommended more pressure on the brake pedal and both were right. I don't hear the squeaking if I apply more pressure than I'm accustomed.
Both recommended that - for now - I adjust my driving habits, and leave the braking components alone. Does that mean, Jon, that you brake at the last minute? I sort of coast to a stop and apply moderate pressure. I don't have the squeak, but I do have the vibrate.
Very nice rims! May I ask what brand are they? They look big, 17"? We've been looking for them I'm coasting more than braking as well; but rather than my usual "light" pressure-to-stop, I'm apply a medium amount pressure a bit later than usual. I'm definitely not braking "hard" at the last minute.
Nothing in the cab is being jostled. I haven't spilled any coffee or anything. I have no brake-pedal or front-end vibration, but I do have a squeak unless I apply pressure passed a certain threshold. I just did an experiment on my 07 squeaker.
I did not lock up, but sure am glad I had the seat belt on. Mine have squealed from day one! Regardless of how we drive; the brakes should not squeak at any speed, pedal pressure, load, etc. I'm not about to change my driving habits and have my 4 kids bouncing around the interior because the brakes are obviously faulty, have the wrong pads or are improperly calibrated. Ihope when I go back for the third time to have front end shake tires adressed this too can be striaghten out.
I would have put money on the noise coming from the door, but sure enough with the mechanic sitting on the floor NEXT to the door, we removed the seat and the noise went away.
Now about that seat making a rattle Oh sorry, no fix for THAT!!!!! Well mine had a rattle in the slider door. But it was just an improperly aligned striker bolt. I have no other complaints, besides the squeaky brakes; But about the brakes, I took the advice given earlier and stepped on them a little harder than I normally do for a couple of stops without the kids or wife in the van and the squeak has gone away, at least for now. My Sprinter has the same problem. It is usually the worst when moving very slowly approaching a stoplight.
It is so loud that I often see other drivers around me looking to see where the noise is coming from! I took it to the dealer who told me they had seen 10 other customers with the same complaint.
They told me that this year's model has fully metallic brake pads as opposed to the usual semi metallic. They also said that they have been reporting this to the factory in hopes to come up with a fix for it. They said they wouldn't expect to see anything very soon Though. Scott, If you provide contact information for your dealership, other dealerships may contact them and "join in" the collective effort to banish the squeak.
Spray it on both sides of your rotors, capiler slides, and on the back side "the metal plate" of the brake pad and reassemble. Just put on one coat, it comes in a spray can and i buy it by the box at napa, i think its about 5 bucks a can. I'm sorry MB should be fixing this with new pads and or rotors.
Or at least telling the dealers to pull the pads and squirt some anti-squeal stuff in there The next actionable effort should be to contact Dodge Customer Service. Be sure to have your vehicle identification number VIN and current mileage on the odometer available.